Friday, July 30, 2010

World Cup in Brazil: Cheering

It's been some time ago, but after one month 2010 Fifa World Cup has ended. Although Brazil didn't win, now there is a new champion - Spain - who represented the beautiful way of playing soccer even better than the Brazilian team this year; and won the title playing against another team that was playing by - much - force... Ouch!

Ahem. So, another World Cup ends, with thrilling match moments (like the last-minute goal that granted US advance to the Round of 16 or the only goal in Paraguay vs Spain); discussions about referee slips (e.g. the English goal against Germany that was - wrongly - disallowed and was also mysteriously omitted in the official website); or "anti-fairplay" actions that in some cases changed the outcome of the match (like Suarez's handball in Uruguay vs Ghana).

As much as what happened in-game, many things that happened in the "outside world" can also be considered World Cup highlights: octopus Paul's predictions; Larissa Riquelme and her promise that made many people start cheering for Paraguay (although that had obvious second intentions to put her on the highlights as well. Anyway I'll just let it be for now since it's too off-topic), and the victory kiss of Casillas and Sara Carbonero.

Among all that happened, one thing still surprised me a lot in a positive way: the support of local people for the event. Even before the World Cup started, there was a massive show of support for the Bafana Bafana (South Africa team). Although South Africa became the first host country that couldn't make it to the Round of 16, it was always possible to see South African flags among all the other teams (some with more local support than others, that's true).

In the end, it turned into a nice celebration, something Africans can do very well.

And then I think what may happen in the next World Cup... in Brazil.

It is true that in Brazil the soccer hype is already very strong. There is little to no need to ask for support within the country. In fact, considering that the country already stops to watch when Brazil plays in the World Cup, I wonder what may happen when the games are held in Brazil.

Still,, exactly because the the hype is strong and so the national team, support here is not neutral. Brazilians will cheer for Brazil to win, not caring about any of the other teams.

Proof? Only circumstantial, but, for example, after Brazil lost to Netherlands in this World Cup, there were some comments here and there saying there's no meaning in discussing the World Cup anymore (because Brazil was out) and we should start talking about things "more interesting". One of the "logical arguments" to "support" that point of view was that "people who cheer for Palmeiras (a Brazilian team) wouldn't watch a Sao Paulo (another Brazilian team, both teams are rivals to a moderate degree) game after Palmeiras was out of the tourneament".

The 2014 World Cup emblem may carry a hidden message in it too. As much as it may be said it symbolizes hands lifting the Cup and colored yellow and green to depict Brazil warmly welcoming the world, those green-and-yellow hands holding the Cup send a different message to my inner Brazilian: "the Cup is ours! Period!"

So I worry a bit about what might happen if Brazil doesn't manage to win the tourneament with all that "subliminar propaganda" around us...

During the next four years, there is still a lot of work to be done: stadiums are incomplete; transportation system in host cities must be enhanced; airports and air traffic infrastructure are still barely acceptable for an event the size of the World Cup; and the list goes on. Nevertheless, one of the most important things to do is creating a cheering culture adequate to the World Cup. Of course we will all cheer for Brazil, but we also must learn to cheer for other teams as well...

... Even though I cannot help but wonder what will be of Argentina in the territory of its arch-rival...

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Curitiba (Brazil)

Applying for another public service examination, I went to Curitiba, capital of Paraná state, where the exam was held on July 4th.

Curitiba is known worldwide for its efficient urban planning, especially regarding its public transportation system. In Brazil, it was one of the first cities to implement garbage separation for recycling, and now it recycles around two-thirds of its garbage - one of the highest ratings in the world - even though participation by the general population is not (yet) mandatory. Curitiba is also often considered one of the best cities of Brazil to live.


Since Curitiba is relatively close to Londrina (379 km away. Brazil-wise that can be considered close), a one-day trip via night bus would be enough this time. And since the exam would be in the afternoon, that left me with time enough to visit one touristic place.

The place chosen was the "Jardim Botânico" ("Botanical Garden"), one of the most famous places of Curitiba. The metallic structure of the main greenhouse is one of the city's postcards and is in front of a French-style garden. Also, as a botanical garden, it has many Brazilian plants, including some rare specimens and a "garden of sensations" where the visitor interacts with plants and natural scenes blindfolded to feel nature using the other senses.


From there I left to do the exam. After it was over, I spent some time in Shopping Estação, a former train station that was reformed into a shopping mall in 1997. Before I took the bus back there was still time to meet a friend who also went to Japan the same year I went to Kyoto (henceforth called "R."). In fact, we were approved for the MEXT scholarship together.

And that brings a nostalgic feeling. After our scholarship was confirmed, there was an orientation session at the Consulate-General of Japan in Curitiba. That was also the first time all those who passed the selection met each other (although I was the only one that didn't live in Curitiba), and after the orientation, we decided to go to a pub celebrate and talk about our expectatives.

If I'm not wrong, "R." and I were the only ones who had been to Japan before. And, I wonder if it is coincidence or the fact that we have similar majors, he is the only one of that group I've met since. Once in Nikko, then in Tokyo and now in Curitiba again.

And now, three years after going to Japan, we were telling each other stories of what happened in Japan, especially the stress when packing everything to return to Brazil. The cycle ended and now it is time to move on. He already has. I am moving towards it, too. And finding a (good) job is the big leap necessary for this.

Life goes on.

More pictures are available in my Picasa album.

Friday, July 16, 2010

Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul (Brazil)

In search for a job, I applied for a public service opening in a different state. Since I would have to go to that state for a public service examination ("concurso público"), that would be a good chance to visit a part of Brazil I've never been to.

The state is Rio Grande do Sul, and the exam was held in Porto Alegre.

That region is famous among Brazilians for a number of characteristics, among which its characteristic accent; a strong traditional culture; main influence of German and Italian immigrants; some famous personalities like Ronaldinho Gaúcho and Gisele Bündchen; and a strong sense of regionalism, to the point that some are separatists. The latter characteristic may derive from the Farroupilha Revolution, a separatistic movement triggered in that same state and which led to the longest civil war in Brazilian History.

After arriving by plane on June 26th and reaching the hotel where I would stay, I decided to leave for a little touristic stroll. And just walking around downtown may be a History class since, as reminded by a local friend, many streets there are named after important names of the Farroupilha Revolution.

The first stop was the "Mercado Público de Porto Alegre" (Public Market of Porto Alegre) or just "Mercado" as it is most often called. Built in 1869, it is considered an Important Cultural Asset and one of the references when shopping in the city. Among the products offered are regional products and natural products.


Then, after walking to "Praça Marechal Deodoro" ("Marshal Deodoro Square"), surrounded by many other important buildings like the Metropolitan Cathedral of Porto Alegre (first built in 1772 and reformed in the early XX Century with, among other structures, a 60m tall and 18m diameter dome) and the Piratini Palace (official workplace of the Governor of the State of Rio Grande do Sul), I decided to end the tour for the day. After all, there was a exam waiting.

The next day was the day of the exam, which took place during the morning. After taking the wrong bus on the way back (when the driver kindly let me ride again without having to pay the fare again) I was back downtown with more time to walk around the town.

So, after a brief stop at the hotel (it was hot on that day, but when I left early in the morning I was prepared for a cold weather as many say it is characteristic of the region) I went to "Parque da Redenção" ("Redemption Park"), also known as "Parque Farroupilha" ("Farroupilha Park"). The park is one of the most popular in town; and since it was a sunny Sunday, there were lots of people there jogging, playing, visiting a (mostly handicraft) market at a nearby street... and enjoying the nice weather. The park also has an extensive history linked to the development of Porto Alegre. Still, I don't think I understand that history enough to try explaining it here.


After the park, I walked to "Gasômetro", a former thermoelectric power plant that was turned into a cultural center from where it is possible to watch a beautiful sunset. From there it is also possible to ride a boat that goes around some small islands in the area.


That ended my tour around Porto Alegre. The only thing left to do was going back home, but not without buying some local souvenirs. Especially because my parents like a drink traditional of the region - chimarrão -, so I just had to buy something for them.

As a note, I saw very few Asian-looking people on the three days I stayed in Porto Alegre. And none during the exam. Still, just once I was stared at because of my looks: by a kid when I was on my way to the airport. No "Gaijin Stares" there.

Another curiosity of the region is that it is possible to see many people (and not only men) wearing clothes indicating if they support Grêmio or Internacional - the two strongest soccer teams in the state and fierce rivals. Indicating that you support one of these teams is certain to get the sympathy of one group... and complaints from the other.

Finally, since we are talking about soccer, while I was flying back Brazil was playing against Chile for the 2010 Fifa World Cup. As the plane reached Congonhas Airport (I had to transit from there), the pilot annouced that he had an important announcement to make: according to informations from the tower, the game was still 0-0. Ah, I have to admit I missed Brazilian irreverence when I lived in Japan...

But it isn't over yet. Just as we arrived inside the airport and saw some televisions (obviously broadcasting the soccer match) Brazil scored the first goal. Talk about perfect timing!

More pictures are available in my Picasa album.

Friday, July 09, 2010

Cuidad del Este, Paraguay

So, after explaining about the "soccer frenzy" that takes over Brazil during a World Cup, it just happens that I wasn't in Brazil when Brazil played its first match against North Korea.

... I was in Paraguay. Well, at least during part of the first half.

There is a tripoint between Argentina, Brazil in Paraguay that is most know as "Tríplice Fronteira" ("Triple Frontier"). All three countries belong to the economic bloc known as Mercosur/Mercosul (Southern Common Market), which allows people from these countries to, among other things, move between these countries without any need of passports (an ID card from their country of origin is enough). Add to that the fact that Paraguay has a strong "black market" and less taxation over its products (particularly electronics) than Brazil and you have people crossing the border from Foz do Iguaçú (Brazil) to Cuidad del Este (Paraguay) for shopping.

(That area also has some history in illicit activities, in part because of difficulties to monitor the area, including stories about Osama Bin Laden passing through that region. But that discussion is off-topic. Back to track...)

Anyway, a relative gathered friends to go shopping in Cuidad del Este. And since there were two places that should be filled in the rented van they used to go, my mother and I went with them on June 15th.

We left early morning and arrived in Foz do Iguaçú (henceforth just "Foz") around lunch time, reaching the hotel where we would spend the night. After that, we went straight to Cuidad del Este for the first day of shopping.

Brazil was going to play at 15:30 BRT, but the group was comprised of mostly women, who wouldn't mind missing the game... espacially one that Brazil was assumed to win big. They thought stores would remain open, since we would be in Paraguay (that played on the previous day and managed to draw against Italy).

Wrong.

Many Brazilians work in Cuidad del Este given the large number of Brazilians who go shopping there. And guess if those workers didn't want to watch the game...

With most stores closing 30 minutes before the game, we gave up and returned to the hotel. And from there, my mother, my relative and I decided to pay a visit to another relatives who live in Foz. We reached their house just before the second half of the match started, and then I finally could watch the game with everyone.

After the not-so-much convincing victory of 2-1, we stayed to chat (I hadn't seen then since I went to Kyoto in 2007), eat churrasco and play with the kids (one of whom I saw for the first time). About the latter part, they got an unusual liking for me after the first minutes. The most amusing part was when one girl was pulling be by my shirt to play with her, while her younger sister was pulling me by the arm to the opposite direction... while I was eating.

After all that, the next day went without any disruptions. We went shopping and then returned to Londrina at night.

But I might have gotten too used to Japan... I only managed to buy a wristwatch for myself. Ah, and no pictures this time. It would just feel awkward to take touristic pictures in Cuidad del Este around the places we usually go for shopping...